I'm currently fitting some window roller-blinds. Two of which have to go above windows which appear to have steel lintels above (with plaster skin over).I need to fit the brackets, using screws, into the walls above the windows.One worked ok as the plaster skim is strong and deep enough. However on the second window I was drilling the screw holes (masonry drill) and hit steel after about 8mm. I have tried to improvise by cutting the screws short, and filling the holes and back of the bracket with glue ('Sticks like sh*t', which it claims is as strong as it gets). But an hour or two later, and the attachment does not look like it is going to be up to the long-term job of holding up a blind, and taking the force of pulling the chain up and down. We'll see tomorrow.If it does not hold, can anyone suggest how I might keep the brackets in place? Are there drill-bits that will go through an RSJ/lintel?
If it does not hold, can anyone suggest how I might keep the brackets in place?Can you fix the brackets higher up - above the lintel? To the ceiling?Alternatively, you need to fix a strip of timber wider than the lintel, then fix the brackets to that, but that may not be aesthetically pleasing! (Perhaps you'll need to treat both windows the same?)Adrian
Can you rotate the brackets through 90 degrees and screw them into the window surround ?Should be easy enough if the frames are woodmrf
I can't get the brackets/blind into the window recess, as the window (UPVC) opens, and occupies the whole recess, which is probably about 12" deep. I could mount the blind higher up the wall above the recess, but that would mean taking down pictures I have hanging in that area (a shame). I wonder if getting a simple say 1"*1" or 2"*1" baton, painting it white and glueing it on to the wall, horizontally above the window, might work. Over the 1.5M width you might think it would be strong enough to stay-put? Not exactly aesthetic, but might resolve the problem. Anyway, we'll see how things look with the current plan #A tomorrow.
Are there drill-bits that will go through an RSJ/lintel?Yes, use a HSS drill bit. Drill a pilot hole and use self tapping screws to fix the bracket into the lintel.HTHDave.
Ollocks:Yes, use a HSS drill bit. Drill a pilot hole and use self tapping screws to fix the bracket into the lintel.As this is the first time I have attempted this kind of thing, can I clarify a couple of points?Do you mean drill a pilot hole in the beam itself, (as in a hole smaller than the intended screws)? But how much smaller, presumably the screws are not going to open up the pilot holes much when they go in?Thx
Do you mean drill a pilot hole in the beam itself, (as in a hole smaller than the intended screws)? But how much smaller, presumably the screws are not going to open up the pilot holes much when they go in?Yes, drill a pilot hole in the beam slightly smaller than the screw. A self tapping screw cuts its own thread as you screw it in. If the screw is 4mm, drill a 3.5 or 3.7mm pilot hole.If in doubt, try the smaller drill first.HTHDave.
Thanks Ollocks. It looks like the bracket I put up last night is well and truly stuck fast now, so I have repeated the process (having been able to measure up this morning) with the second one. I think the fact that the room is currently unheated meant the glue took a long time to cure.I appreciate your advice though greatly, if the current system fails at any point, I now feel enlightened on how to fully resolve it.Ta!
In the days when asbestos based materials were used much more than today you could get a product that consisted of asbesos fibres with a setting compound called (i think) philplug. By pinching out a bit of the fibre and dampening it with water ( although spit seemd to be the most convenient substance) it could ne mashed into a stiff ball then rolled and rammed tight into any irregular hole. The screw went in and after a short period the plug set. The screw could be removed and reinserted almost at will because the hole was a pefect match for the screw.Of course you can't get it anymore but i make my own using hemp and a plaster/cement based filler mix.
I know its many years on now from the original post but I came across this a few weeks ago and whilst hunting for some new plasterboard fixings on the market called Grip Its.They're heavy duty fixings and only protude 2.5mm in to the cavity so thought they would be ideal but I am going to be honest I did have my doubts.I bought them last week and used them over the weekend and must say they solved the problem very well and were easy to install and hold well.Just thought I would let anyone else know whose experiencing the problem and hunting the forums about a new solution possibility.