Hi rcow
Would recommend you take a tour, travelling independently is frustrating and far more arduous than it need be. A tour will insulate you from the touts, travel hassles you'll find there. Some people love it, I won't be going back anytime soon... Here's my trip notes of travelling there last Feb.
Have a great time.
23 January Habana
Woke at dawn and after breakfast and last minute emails, headed off at 8 to Alajuela bus station, arriving at airport at 8.20. Used up balance of my phone card (used about 50c in three weeks in Costa Rica ) phoning home.
Immigration and customs were straightforward, although had to pay US26 tax which I'd been told was included in my ticket! Anyhow, start of a good day...
Browsed the shops of San Jose airport (Costa Rica) before boarding flight at 10.15. Still quite rough despite what looked like pleasant conditions, and glad to land safely in Habana shortly before 2 local time. Immigration was quite easy and quick, although first time I'd ever been asked to remove my glasses.
Welcome to Cuba -wasn't at all happy on spotting my open pack, and plastic bags of my stuff performing a conga line on the carousel, sticky fingers had been ransacking my rucksack! Appalling introduction to Cuba , not helped by the disinterested customs and luggage staff. Headed up to LACSA airline office to lodge a complaint, (nothing taken since nothing of value in my pack), but first time I'd ever had my luggage rifled by airport baggage handlers - my pack is very travel worn (it´s a musty ochre colour rather than its original black), and not likely to contain anything of worth! Must remember to leave my unwashed undies at the top of the pack if I ever return...
Booked travels for my trip to the Oriente provinces in a couple of days time at the Viazul desk, before changing some CUC into the local "moneda nacional", paid to locals and not much use except for buying street food, ferry tickets, local bus transport. Met John, a British analyst working in Cayman Islands, with Victoria and their baby boy. They kindly offered to shared a taxi into town (US25) and so had our first introduction to a Lada taxi = clean and comfortable with air conditioning provided by the gaping holes in the doors and dashboard... It took about half an hour to drive the 25km north into Habana Central. Lots of people queuing for buses, and the impressive Marti monolith and Interior Building with the instantly recognizable silhouette of Che adorning its exterior stood out as rushed through the city centre.
Taxi dropped me in front of Islazul Caribbean, a clean, comfortable hotel, although don't know why I was charged an additional CUC7 per day for the use of the safe! Everything is a scam here in Cuba . Goods are counterfeit, change given in local money instead of the convertible pesos, if any change given at all, and people plead ignorance in the garbled Cuban / Spanish dialect. Difficult to understand after the relative purity of the language in Costa Rica . Initial impression of Habana was a well reputed historic, amazing city, just a pity it's full of Cubans. ...
Wandered through Habana Vieja in the late p.m. / beautiful lighting over the Bay, although the water was filthy, and thought the discarded cigar butts would start a conflagration every time the locals threw one in! There was a commercial being filmed near the fort at the entrance to the bay, although all the forts and museums had closed for the day.
Strolled along the Malecon waterfront, faded grandeur of buildings contrasted with surprisingly modern vehicles, not so many 50's cars as I'd thought. Returned to Islazul Caribbean to change before heading to Parque Nacional, heated arguments about basketball were winding down as headed into Floridita, historic bar and replete with salsa band. Good fun. Loud, brash, pretty women, the rum flowing freely.
Costs
US27 Flor de Cana
US26 departure tax from Costa Rica
CUC10 shared Lada taxi into Central Habana
CUC1.5 lemonade
CUC21 safe and tip to get room on fifth floor with Claudia
CUC2 commission to Viazul clerk at airport
MN3 ice cream
24 January Habana
Woke at dawn and spent the day wandering around Habana Vieja, stopping first at the Capitaloto and nearby parks as the morning rush hour formed. San Rafael was pleasant pedestrian walking area, and surprised by relative courtesy of Cuban drivers towards pedestrians, they even stop at crossings to let people walk across! Quite a number of plaques commemorating various socialists, communists who'd stayed in Habana, with explanations in Spanish, and Hungarian, Polish (whatever the inhabitant's nationality).
Central Habana was a crumbling wreck, whilst the historic centre had been spruced up significantly, with a lot of support from Spain and the EU. Wandered up pedestrianised Calle Osbispo and then up to Cathedral square. Popped into Templeto to review various mosaics painted in the 19th century - the building was more interesting. Browsed the numerous book stands, replete with revelations about the revolution, Fidel and numerous other communist luminaries. Copied maps of Havana at local stationery shop, and then popped into Museum of Rum, crowded with tourists. So adjourned to the nearby ferry, for a crossing to Regla, site of the Catholic / Santera church. There was a mass at 5p.m. attended by many white robed Santera devotees. Interesting service for the 10 minutes I saw. Wanted to see guitar recital in Plaza Rafael which was just finishing as I arrived. And had trouble locating the Casa de Trova, so my Cuban musical experiences had to wait another day.
Costs
1.6CUC lemonade
5CUC lunch
1 CUC entry to Templeto
13CUC dinner
18MN photocopies
5MN ham sandwich
4MN lemonade
10MN donations
5MN drink
25 January Habana
My second complete day in Habana, this time spent exploring Central Habana and Vedado to the west of the historic city centre. Walked down San Rafael pedestrian street and continued west through the dirty and run down suburbs, to the location of the Romeo & Juliet cigar factory, only to be told it had now been converted into a school. The shop was still in place and had a chance to review the very expensive Cohiba and other brand name cigars.
From there, it was only a 20 minute wander across to the Plaza de la Revolution, and onto the Marti museum and monument. It gave good views of Habana, albeit the day was fairly overcast. The Marti museum gave an interesting account of Marti's life and times, and his death in the 2nd independence war. Appears that Fidel sees himself as Marti's proxy. There are few portraits of Fidel in Cuba, but every village, suburb, of every town, has a Marti memorial. Good going for a bloke who only spent half his life in Cuba, the rest in exile.
Continued westwards onto the Colon necropolis, where the great and the good of Cuban society were interred, or at least laid to rest in marble slabs above ground (since water levels are quite high here in Habana). Browsed along the ornately designed and intricately carved gravestones and family tombs - a special place reserved for martyrs of the revolution. Cuba has a thing about martyrs - probably because they're still struggling to finish their 1st independence war, started in 1868.
Left the necropolis to walk to Calle 21 (bottom end of Las Rampas which started at the Malecon a few miles NE). Enjoyed some tasty pastries, before wandering through tree lined, smart suburbs of Vedado to the John Lennon park. John had his glasses placed with the security guard who provided them on request to the numerous tourists to have their photos taken with the late lamented Beatle (another martyr?). Stopped at nearby Union Francesa restaurant for tasty lunch, before heading down to the sea along shady tree lined avenues. The promenade followed the stone wall Malecon, and had to take evasive action at various points from the thundering surf that pounded over the sea wall and onto the pavement and road.
Passed by the US Special Interests section, festooned with barbed wire, and facing 138 massive black flags, to signal the number of years (in 2006) since 1868 that Cuba had been subject to tyranny! Interesting take on who's a terrorist! Moved on quickly to various monuments along the sea front, eventually finding my way back to the Hotel Caribbean. Dined at Casa Cientifico for delicious lobster, before watching Mr Bean's Holiday in a nearby art deco cinema, original furnishings in fairly poor condition, but very atmospheric. Cuba is a great place to enjoy old style theatres - no multiplexes here!
Costs
6CUC entry Marti museum and mirador
2CUC Colon Necropolis
1CUC water (tap / seal broken)
1.5CUC lemonade
9CUC lunch
2CUC cinema (Mr Bean)
4.2CUC stamps and postcards (3)
1CUC cakes
1CUC tip
12.6CUC dinner
26 January Habana
Watched highlights of Australian open tennis championships, and wandered back into Habana Vieja and onto ferry across the bay to La Casona. Spent an hour or so there admiring views of Habana from the Christ statue. Returned to the old town to wander around Carmen convent and other churches in the vicinity. Very picturesque, albeit dirty and run down compared to the northern section of the old town. Infotur slammed door in my face as they closed an hour early for lunch - such is the service here in Cuba, and that was the tourist office!
Checked out late and spent hour trying very slow, expensive internet, before heading to Museum of the Revolution. Loads of sepia photos and wreckage of the campaign in the 50's to remove Batista from power. Nothing of note since 1990 and the special period, but lots of pronouncements about the Revolution and slogans used for "internacionalismo". Was able to tour around the glass encased Granma, a really small vessel for carrying 82 revolutionaries from Mexico! Stopped by the eternal flame to commemorate the sacrifice of most of them in the initial days of the landing. Lots of fragments, wreckage of planes and boats used in the abortive Bay of Pigs invasion. Nothing about the fact that a full revolution means you end up back where you started...
Caught taxi to Viazul terminal for 6.15p.m. overnight bus to Santiago. Quite full, mainly of Cubans, and not a comfortable journey, since a number of stops, and the highway was quite bumpy. We broke down a couple of times but drivers seemed to fix the bus without too many problems.
Costs
51CUC Viazul overnight bus to Santiago
1CUC tip to Chambermaid
6CUC internet
5CUC phone card (2CUC a minute for phone call to Guantanamo )
MN6 snack
MN2 ferries
27 January Guantanamo
Glad to have a break when arrived in Santiago Viazul terminal around 6.45. Made my way through extremely persistent (annoying) touts to nearby monumental Maceo monument - Cuba govt likes the gigantism style of commemorating their independence heroes. (Marti likewise has a massive statue of him at the end of the Paseo in Havana).
Boarded east bound bus to Baracoa at 7.45a.m. as it climbed up the mountain range through thick fog and mist, before descending into the clear skies of Guantanamo at 9.10a.m. No other tourists alighted there, so caught taxi to Casa Particular in the centre of town, run by a friendly lady of Jamaican descent, who spoke fluent English. Learned that the Mirador of the Malones was now off limits to those wanting to view Guantanamo Camp in the distance.
Not to be deterred, wandered the dusty, hot streets of Guantanamo, a pleasant enough place with horse carts taking the place of intra town buses. Explored the nearby zoo / aviary - Cubans do take the environment somewhat seriously, although the amount of litter they drop might contradict this statement.
Arrived at main square to see a baseball game being completed in Plaza Mcgrath and a further monumental sculpture to Maceo. Tasted delicious Coppelia ice cream for first time and returned to casa particular (CP), to write up diary and wash my clothes.
Learned there was to be a concert, fiesta to commemorate the 155th anniversary of Marti's birth in the plaza next to the railway station. Its opening time was 7, but it was a very motley, quiet affair until 8, when I turned around to see miles long procession of the local townsfolk with torches, amazing sight. They all paraded into the now packed plaza, and the MC started proceedings with a local dance troupe and some music. This lasted 10 minutes, and then came the turn of the local politicos with a very long winded speech which I gave up on after 15 minutes, as did most of the crowd. Cubans aren't that socialist, but they are very patriotic, there was not a sound when the Cuban national anthem started and everyone stood erect with hats off and hands over hearts.
Costs
2CUC taxi from bus station to casa
20CUC CP Lara Foster
6CUC bus from Santiago to Guantanamo
2CUC snacks
1.5CUC lemonade
5MN snacks
1MN zoo entry
5MN drink
10MN pizza
2MN ice cream
28 January Baracoa
Slept very well after the previous night's lack of kip, and only woken by sound of drums in the vicinity. They heralded the start of more processions, just below the CP, and I had excellent view from the balcony of the various school (pioneer) battallions who were commemorating Marti's birth. Interesting that some groups were symbolising Mexico, Venezuela, Nicaragua and Brazil.
Lara had arranged private car to return me to bus station at 9 once the parade had finished, for 9.30a.m. bus onto Baracoa. Just as well I got there early, since bus arrived and departed at 9.15! A strange journey, since the drivers stopped numerous time on their way, trying to find a belt that would suit their ample girths! Tasty roadside snacks of pear apple and chicuurus?, delicious coconut based snack wrapped in palm leaf like an ice cream cone.
Eventually arrived in Baracoa around 2, to be met by friendly welcoming Onoria, saved being hassled by numerous other casa owners and touts who lined the Viazul gates seeking guests for the various CPs in town. Walked to her nearby house, and soon ensconced in delightful upper floor room, with fantastic views of Baracoa bay from the balcony. Plus the food for dinner and breakfast was excellent. A great CP and well worth the cost of the phone call to reserve.
Spent rest of afternoon wandering the streets of Baracoa, popping into the municipal museum at the southern based fort in town. More great views of the coastline and expansive beach to the south. Delicious lobster for dinner, after watching sunset from hotel on top of ridge.
Stopped by Casa de Trova and other places for music in the evening. Enjoyable night.
Costs
3CUC breakfast
10CUC bus from Guantanamo to Baracoa
2CUC taxi to bus station from CP
3.5CUC lunch, fried chicken & drink
5.6CUC Havana Club 3 yr rum
2CUC entry to Baracoa municipal museum
10CUC dinner
20CUC room
1CUC casa de trova
5MN chocolate
20MN 3 chicurras
5MN plantain apples
5MN snack
29 January Baracoa
Woke to the dawn chorus and lapping waves, lovely spot. Enjoyed tasty breakfast before wandering down to Cubatur office at 8.45 where lined up with many other tourists, for the 9a.m. tour to Alejandro Humboldt national park. 48km north. Met Matt, another Aussie (on parole from his Cuban wife for a few days to look around), on the minibus as we made our way along the winding, gravel road, stopping at the park entrance for good views of the picturesque coves/ coastline.
Bus pulled up at start of Balcon del Iberia path in the national park, an easy, gently rolling farm track, passing through banana plantation and some jungle. Pleasantly shaded, with some useful vantage points of the coast, before we emerged at a river and were able to go for a swim in and around the waterfall. Only hassle was continually taking off shoes / socks - would have used my thongs if better prepared.
Enjoyed some tasty coconut water from local farmers, before we met the minibus at the end of the trail, which then took us down to Playa Managua, a very pleasant beach with some wrecked coral and loads of sea grass. Stopped there for half an hour, before heading back to Baracoa. Met up Matt for a beer and dinner at the northern most fort restaurant, great views at sunset. More good music in the town centre that went on until around midnight.
Costs
20CUC room
3CUC breakfast
24CUC tour to Alejandro Humboldt NP
1CUC tip
10CUC dinner at CP
3MN coconut
30 January Baracoa
Rose groggily again around dawn, for another recuperative breakfast. Had arranged to go on another tour, this time to El Yunque, the anvil shaped hill to the north west of Baracoa, so named by Christopher Columbus in his first expedition to the West Indes.
Bus left at 9, along with Matt, and Tom & Doris, a Canadian couple who'd also been on the trip to Alejandro Humboldt NP the day before. Our guide was Spanish speaking only, but very informative and helpful. It was a steep trek, crossing a wide river to walk past farm villages, and then enter what was the southern section of the national park, which incorporated El Yunque.
The path became steep and rocky in parts, and stopped numerous times to view the Tucurucu?, the national bird of Cuba, and other species. Birds were much more evident than yesterday, although we were a much smaller group.
Eventually arrived at the summit of El Yunque, crowded with other visitors in the area, which was alleviated when they left around 10 minutes later. It was fairly overcast, but could still have good views of Baracoa, the coast, and the interior of the National Park. Took as much time to return as to ascend, and we stopped at refreshing swimming hole along the river, shortly before meeting our very angry Cuban driver. Cubans don't like to be kept waiting and having to work overtime, regardless of the waits they incur on their customers by the appallingly slow, glacial service.
Met up with the others at the Fort for drinks and a meal at sunset. More glorious views, and spent the evening trying local delicacies. Very enjoyable, rounded off by more music at the Casa de Trova. Tourist spots like Baracoa become the places to hear traditional music as musicians gravitate there to earn their CUC (hard convertible currency).
Costs
20CUC room
3CUC breakfast
16CUC tour of El Yunque
3CUC tip
4CUC mojitos
3CUC drinks
31 January Santiago de Cuba
My time to leave Baracoa, and spent the morning wandering around the town, and visiting the archaeological museum, situated in a cave used by the Taino when escaping from the Spanish when they first colonised the area in 1511. It held spectacular views from its mirador of Baracoa and the coastline, along a very rickety wooden bridge and steps, no health and safety considerations here!
Farewelled Onoria and headed to bus station for 2p.m. bus back to Santiago de Cuba. It was a similar journey to the outbound one, with the drivers stopping often as if on a personal shopping trip. Chatted to Martin, a Peruvian chap who was seeing his daughter and Cuban girlfriend in Guantanamo, before heading back to Santiago and onto Switzerland. Shows how mobile the world is nowadays.
Arrived back in Santiago around 7, and caught cab into town with Matt and Irish fellow named Declan. We caught up for dinner and drinks in the town centre, flirting with the jineteras at the various bars, a good evening and stumbled back to the CP in the wee hours.
Costs
2CUC chicaronnes
1CUC taxi
3CUC breakfast
6CUC internet
2CUC water
4CUC lunch
20CUC casa
13CUC dinner
1CUC music
40MN tips
1 February Santiago de Cuba
Woken around dawn, with only a couple of hours sleep, due to the loud buses and tracks changing gear, on the main street on which the friendly Casa was situated. Chatted to friendly Dutch couple over breakfast before catching up with Declan and Matt to explore the city proper. Wandered over to the Monceda barracks, and met the Cuban wrestling team there, so returned for a beer in the nearby plaza. Farewelled Declan who was flying over to Dominican Republic so gave him plenty of info on what to see / do etc. Matt & I then returned to the Monceda barracks, now a school, to the now familiar litany of slogans, list of martyrs, and various atrocities and torture equipment used by the Batista regime.
We then took a detour through the northern suburbs of Santiago, stopping in various locals homes as they invited us in for cups of tea, coffee. Very welcoming and far different to the grasping, greedy shysters that I'd encountered in Havana. Interesting to hear views on Cuban life both before and after the revolution, from Alfred and his sister Belkis, still living in the house they'd been born in. Very dilapidated, but their house, along an even more wrecked 1950's vehicle lying listlessly outside.
Various vendors and neighbours traipsed in during our chats. Very informal and enjoyed seeing how friendly Cubans really were. Spent so long chatting, that we missed attending the nearby rum museum.
Farewelled Matt, who was heading back to his wife and rellies, and spent the evening watching the Santiago Septeto, a fantastic band, celebrating their 14th anniversary together that evening. They played for around 3 hours, and it was again in the wee hours, before I returned to my CP, fortunately I had a key this time to get in and avoid waking the friendly elderly couple.
Costs
20CUC room
6CUC breakfast
4CUC water
8CUC dinner
2CUC lemonade
1CUC casa de trova
2CUC entry Monceda barracks
5CUC casa de musica
3CUC mojito
6CUC beers
2 February Santiago de Cuba
After another filling breakfast at my CP, headed to Cubatur, to meet Domingo, our German speaking guide, together with a German couple I'd met on the Alejandro Humboldt tour! You meet everyone in Baracoa at some point!
We drove off west through the outskirts of Santiago and shortly arrived at El Cobre, church famous for its Nuestra Senora del Virgen, a sanctuary for votives. What was particularly interesting was the pleas for thoughts of Cuban political prisoners, along with votive given by Fidel's mother to protect him when he was fighting in the Sierra Maestra in the 1950's.
Spent half an hour wandering around the basilica, before heading back to Santiago, not a great tour, although I got some basic German language training at the same time. It concluded with a tour of the Rum Factory that I'd tried to get to the day before, but it was more an opportunity sell souvenirs than anything else.
Left the bus to wander back to the Necropolis, a km away, which was the burial site of Jose Marti, along with other martyrs of the Revolucion, Frank Pais amongst others. There was a dramatic changing of the ceremonially clad guard every half hour, accompanied by martial music. Watched from various vistas during the couple of hours that I wandered around the cemetery. A peaceful spot beyond the pomp and ceremony at the entrance. Interesting to see how many Cubans were killed in Angola, a recent war I know nothing about.
Walked back into Santiago, local workers still fumigating the barrios as I wandered past - no notice given, just get out and wait for the dust to settle! Enjoyed chatting to friendly Beatle loving bookstore owner, before heading to Emilio Bacardi museum, views over city were better than the fairly mundane exhibits, many made by his relatives.
Much more interesting was attending the Yoruba, African based folklorico performance at the nearby Museo de Carneval - plenty of moving and shaking going on, and subjected to various incantations and blessings (for CUC of course).
Attended evening mass with my landlady at the local cathedral, mostly women or old men, the blokes outside drinking and smoking in the square.
Another cultural experience was dining in one of the city´s paladors - fantastic dining rooms of an aristocrat´s house, but the tables were filthy, the cutlery unwashed, the food bland, the staff disinterested (apart from doubling the bill when it came time to pay). I know what it´s like to be a customer of Fawlty Towers... Absolutely appalling service, and that was reflected in future encounters in state run restaurants - staff had no clue and no interest, beyond expecting CUC for what was desultory service at best..
To even out the day, enjoyed the various concerts held at the Casa de Trova - an elderly trumpet player stole the show - absolutely amazing, and lead the octet from start to finish, don´t know where he got the breath from, after puffing on his huge cigars in between songs. Another late and enjoyable night, the music scene in Santiago seems much more accessible than in Havana.
Costs
20CUC room
3CUC breakfast
20CUC tour to El Cobre
1CUC tip
2CUC entry Bacardi Museum
4CUC mojitos Grand Hotel
2CUC lemonade
3CUC entry museum of Carnival
7CUC dinner
1CUC casa de trova
2CUC entry to cemetery
3 February Bayamo
Woke up at first light and enjoyed my last breakfast with Lourdes and her pet parrot. Caught taxi to bus terminal from Parque Cespedes around 8, and had plenty of time to write up my notes before the Havana bound Viazul bus departed at 9. The trip to Bayamo drove through sugar cane fields and cattle country, arriving at the capital of Granma province around 11.
Got played by the bicicleta taxi driver and a jinitero, a middle aged bloke who has the business cards of all the known Casas in Bayamo, and told me the place I´d wanted to stay was full - saying that, the alternative, Villa America, was very clean and friendly, a windowless separate room on the second floor. The tout also made arrangements for a trip to Santo Domingo the next day, so he had his uses. Although I´ve learnt to instruct bicycle - taxi drivers to go directly to CPs, rather than excuse themselves so they can muster up a deal with their mates.
Villa America was about 10 minutes walk from the spacious, tranquil Bayamo town centre. Most of the historic sites ajoined the plaza, and the long pedestrian mall ran off one of its corners. Was just in time for a traditional Bayamese musical show at the Casa de Trova, since 3 British - German tour groups were passing through. Hadn´t seen so many visitors in one place since arriving in Cuba! Interesting to compare their experiences, which were much more positive about the service received, places seen etc. The musical performance was energetic for the middle of the day, helped along by liberal doses of rum punch or the local fruit cocktails made for the audience.
Spent the afternoon wandering the streets of Bayamo, a lazy, tranquil place being a Saturday - played chess in the local chess club, watched locomotives mosey out of the train station, and watched a quite morbid film at the town cinema about Pierrepoint, the British executioner. Didn´t dampen my mood to return to the plaza that evening to visit the provincial museum, more historical relics and revolutionary martyrs.
Interesting to see a performance outside the casa de cultura, of the local Bayames organ, played via printed paper being passed through it. That continued for a little while, before being replaced by a large brass band. After that performance finished, the casa de cultura handed over to local youths to practice their very loud reggaeton. Interestingly, the Casa de Trova became a happening night club playing Latino pop during the night.
Costs
3CUC taxi
3CUC breakfast
7CUC bus to Bayamo
1CUC bike taxi to Casa
20CUC casa room
7CUC dinner
5CUC stamps, postcards
1CUC entry to museum
3.5CUC pizza
1CUC entry to municpal museum
3CUC cuba libre, casa de trova
1CUC entry to casa de trova
4 February Bayamo
Up relatively early to collect my packed lunch - breakfast from the friendly family at Villa America. The private driver turned up at 6.30 (along with the bicycle taxi driver), and we headed to the south part of Bayamo to collect a Greek bloke, who was travelling to Santo Domingo to walk to Pico Turquino and onto the southern coast.
The driver made breakneck speed through the outskirts of Bayamo, before zooming along the much quieter roads west - lined with various murals of very youthful looking martyrs killed during the 1950´s revolutionary struggle. It only took 1.5 hours passing through picturesque rural scenes, to arrive at Santo Domingo in the foothills of the Sierra Maestra.
Had to wait nearly an hour, since arrived at 9, just as one of the tour groups I´d encountered yesterday, had arrived and were piled into the couple of 4WDs used to transport hikers the steep 4km up to Alto de Naranjo. Gave me time to check in, pay the various fees, investigate the various trails of the park, and chatted to rangers, and Richard, the park director, who was going to be my guide, since all others were booked with the tour parties. The Greek bloke was fortunate to be the last person permitted to make the trek to Pico Turquino the next day.
Jeeps turned up around 9.45 for the 10 minute ride up to the heights of Alto de Naranjo, good views of the plains below, and ranges of the Sierra Maestra around us. Started the 3km walk west to te Commandancia de la Plata, the aim of the expedition, along a well worn, easy, shady trail. Richard spotted Toucaru, hummingbirds, and much other birdlife as we lingered behind the tour groups.
Stopped at Medina de Yara, the farmhouse whose campesino was the first to join Fidel in his fight against Batista. Caught up with the tour group as we arrived at the guard post to the rebel´s HQ in the struggle of 1957 & 58 - with various military strikes sent by Batista to eliminate them. Had an interesting explanation of the artefacts and photos exhibited in the modern tourist centre by another guide, before me and Richard headed up to the top of the hill to visit the Radio Rebelde hut, still housing the original transmission gear, as well as the generator used to give them power. Interesting that Radio Rebelde transmitted to Venezuela and the Dominican Republic, Jamaica, from where it was beamed on to communities in the western part of Cuba.
Stopped at well camouflaged aerial, hidden from govt aircraft during the day (Radio Rebelde only broadcast at night), before descending past the captains waiting room, to see Fidel´s house, a 2 room affair, with a balcony and bullet holed fridge. Quite a pleasant spot hidden away in the gully, with steps leading down to Fidel´s bathing pond. Only problem were the masses of mossies, so didn´t linger - instead headed down to the main HQ buildings, quarters, kitchens, hospital. Spent around an hour there, before returning by the same route to Alto de Naranjo - not rushed, and got back to the rendezvous points with our jeeps at 2.30. Took a very leisurely hour to walk the 3km to-from Commandancia de la Plata to Alto de Naranjo, and then as much time again to wander around the Commandancia, situated on a spur of the Sierra Maestra.
Found the curator of the local Santo Domingo museum on return, and spent quarter of hour viewing the dioramas and information about several battles that occurred in the vicinity of Santo Domingo - far more detail than I needed to know.
Woke my driver, snoozing in his rusted Lada at 3.15, which fortunately did eventually start, for the fuel scented return journey to Bayamo - had to feign sleep (not difficult after the lack thereof over the past few nights) in the back seat, to avoid the various police situated along the highway.
Returned to Villa America by 5, in time to wander back into Bayamo plaza and pedestrian mall - quite a lot of artwork and sculptures lined the way. Stopped back in the cinema that evening to watch American Ninja - too poor to be a B movie...
Costs
3CUC breakfast
30CUC private taxi to Santo DOmingo & return from Bayamo
12CUC entry to Pico Turquino NP
5CUC camera fee
5CUC jeep to Alto de Naranjo (& return)
5CUC tip to guide
1CUC entry to museum
3.6CUC water
7CUC dinner
4CUC mojitos
20CUC room at CP
5 February Holguin
After a leisurely, filling breakfast at the CP, headed back to Bayamo town centre to have my shoes shined at a store devoted to shoe shiners, hadn´t seen anything like it before in Cuba. Then visited the Nico Lopez museum (shut) but a pleasant place to wander the grounds. Bought stamps and postcards before collecting my gear and heading to the bus station for my 11 departure northwards.
Enjoyed Bayamo, very understated, non-touristic place, but harmonious and very little traffic, most people use horse carts or bikes to get around. The perfect Cuban town would have the musical ambience of Santiago, the layout of Bayamo, and the location of Baracoa.
Watched a very violent Hong Kong fight movie, weirdly accompanied by Carly Simon´s "Only You" as its soundtrack. The countryside was a sea of cane as made the trip up to Holguin, arriving there around 12.30. Waited for Havantur office to open at 1, and whilst the door was wide open, the staff were very much still on their lunch break at 1.20, and made no bones about telling me so. Ah, socialism at work...
Was under the belief that I could catch a truck from the local bus station up to Gibara, but all attempts to take a truck, local bus failed. Was advised to catch collectivo from the northern most plaza, and waited there with fellow commuters for an hour until a car turned up. The driver wanted 10CUC for a 30km journey and wouldn´t start until I paid. Sought a copper, who turned out to be more interested in penalizing the driver for taking a tourist illegally in his car, than helping me get to Gibara. Was sorry to have landed the bloke in this mess - realised how despotic and repressive Cuba was for locals. Eventually, was able to persuade the police man to let the bloke continue with his journey, whilst I worked out what to do next.
Decided to abort my plans for Gibara, and instead head to Trinidad on Viazul overnight bus. Really dislike the inability to travel around the country by local means - a hire car really is necessary to explore off the beaten track locales.
Had time in the late afternoon to wander around the various plazas, stopped at the provincial museums, tried to find a restaurant open, or that had food, or that wanted to serve a customer. Ended up at Coppellias ice cream joint, before watching Usual Suspects in a cinema just off the main plaza on very dodgy 35mm film tape - reminded me of cinematic experiences of 30 years ago, as reels changed, stopped short. Cinema was incredibly run down, half the seats were missing, and don´t think it was because repairs were taking place.
Then headed to the nearby Casa de Cultural to attend a Mexican cultural night, complete with mariarchi bands and singers - a great example of how different the musical styles of both countries are (and how much better Cuban music is to my undiscerning ear).
Bus to Trinidad left around 11.30 for the 7 hour trip north. Was able to snatch some sleep on the journey (hurrah!, no video or music), despite the numerous stops at provincial capitals along the way. Very inconvenient leaving times travelling this route from east to west, most Viazul buses leave in the dead of night!
Costs
3CUC breakfast
3CUC postcards
3CUC gifts
2CUC stamps
3CUC ice cream
6CUC bus to Holguin
1CUC entry to provincial museum
26CUC bus to Trinidad
2CUC drink
6 February Trinidad
Dawn was breaking as bus approached Trinidad at 6.45. It was met by numerous CP owners clamouring for attention. Followed one all the way out of the town centre after being told it was only 2 mins walk from the bus station, so returned and found my way to Nancy Lopez and Modesto. Ordered breakfast as read my guide books in the comfortable, tranquil patio. Hadn´t really planned this diversion so chatted to them about what to see and do in Trinidad.
They recommended the Tren de Vapour, whose tickets were on sale at the train station by Cubatur at 9a.m. There were hordes of tourists already present, but not a problem to buy a ticket directly, as plenty of carriages hauled by the vintage steam engine.
Train headed out of Trinidad around 10, but soon stopped for water on its outskirts. It was a slow journey through dry, dessicated farmland, some sugar cane, but Valle de los Ingenios seems mainly to be devoted to cattle nowadays. It was a pleasant journey (when the wind was not blowing smoke into the cabin) up to tower and estate house, where watched traphice squeeze cane juice for the numerous visitors. Lots of stalls selling embroidery on the path to the tower entrance, which granted great views of the Escombray ranges and Tope de Collantes, as well as surrounding countryside.
Spent over an hour there, before the train retraced its steps back to Trinidad, stopping for lunch at Casa Guachinango, with some pleasant walks along bridle paths in the vicinity. Excursion finished around 3.00, and so had time to explore the cobblestoned streets of Trinidad. Its reputation is well deserved, a very compact, pretty historic town - and lots of care and attention been given to restoring it to its past glory.
Spent the evening attending the various musical centres, casa de trova, as well as watching the third instalment of the Pirates of the Caribbean at another antiquated cinema. Headed back to CP in the late evening, feeling very sleepy after the past 36 hours exertions - travels.
Costs
3CUC breakfast
20CUC room at CP Trinidad
10CUC train tour
1CUC tower entrance
2CUC lemonade
1CUC water
7CUC dinner
2CUC entrance to museum
5MN bread
2MN film
7 February Trinidad
Slept in until 8a.m., feeling much more refreshed - had to rush breakfast since had booked a tour to Parque Cubana nearby at 8.30 - needn´t have worried, since the Dutch couple who had also booked the trip, had been told a different location to meet, so the mess wasn´t sorted out until around 9.15 (no apologies from the Cubatur staff).
We left by 4WD for the short half hour ride north along the very good graded road (no idea why a 4WD was needed for the trip). But it did restrict the tour group to 3, which meant we could wander and linger at various points along the way, to the waterfall and swimming hole. Quite an underwhelming hike through limestone karst scenery - particularly after seeing loads of people departing for Topes de Callante tour (having been told the night before that there were no tours heading there). Could have just about walked there myself from Trinidad if I´d known.
Joined the throng of tourists at the canyon and we splashed around for an hour, before returning along the trail to the souvenir shop and restaurant, back in Trinidad by 1.30p.m. Gave me time to internet and arrange the next part of my trip, as well as visit Palenque de los Cores Reales and admire the architecture. Stopped along Cahchacharra pub, named after the local concoction of rum, honey and spices - to hear more troubadors playing 3 staple songs and rousing the sun burnt punters for CUC. More a jukebox than a jam session, demanding money with menaces from anyone in the vicinity.
Casa de Trova was empty when I arrived at 9, but soon filled with guests from the nearby Playa Ancon hotels, and enjoyed decent set of songs from the house Septet. Lots of changing of musicians and salsa dancers. It finished around 10.30, at which time everyone adjourned to the steps of the Casa de Musica to hear another great band strut their stuff into the wee hours of the morning.
Costs
4CUC breakfast
20CUC room
24CUC tour of Parque Cubana
1CUC tip
5CUC drinks
2CUC lemonade
6CUC internet
5CUC phone card
8 February Cienfuegos
Rose at 7 and enjoyed filling, tasty breakfast at Nancys CP, before hiring a brakeless, worn bike from Modesto to use to cycle to Playa Ancon, around 11km south of Trinidad. It was particularly tricky on the cobblestoned streets of the town centre, but soon it was more a case of watching the rushing traffic arriving from Playa Ancon in the suburbs. Things became more tranquil as approached the coast, and found a sandy path at the left hand side of the end hotel, which headed all the way to the end of the peninsula. Great views of the coast, lagoon and moutain range in the distance.
Stopped at the placid, clean waters of Playa Ancon for an hour or so - lots of hotel guests already enjoying the numerous activities available at the hotels, or just soaking up the sun. Then headed further along the coast and wished I´d had the full day to explore and snorkel this shoreline. But was heading to Cienfuegos at 3p.m. so returned to CP around midday to wash, pack and farewell my kindly hosts. Spent the next couple of hours at the Sangre Casa? listening to bands and writing up postcards, diary.
Good views of the coastline on the left hand side as Viazul bus travelled the 1.75 hours to Cienfuegos. Was met there by Carmen, the CP owner I´d contacted, who took me to her nearby house - a lovely room with a small balcony overlooking the street. Chatted to Carmen and her friends over coffee, before making my way into Cienfuegos centre, a 15-20 minute walk away. Square was enormous, with great Victorian buildings surrounding it in various states of repair, the noted opera house currently closed for renovations.
Enjoyed a wonderful dinner of lobster and local fruit and vegetables on the upstairs terrace, under the stars, whilst chatting to Felipo, Carmen´s husband, about life in Cuba. Stopped back in room watch awful Samuel Jackson move Black Moan Dog - no idea what it was about, even in English...
Costs
5CUC breakfast
3CUC bike hire to Playa Ancon
1CUC bike parking, Playa Ancon
3CUC mojito
6CUC bus to Cienfuegos
20CUC room at CP
5.6CUC 3 yr Havana Club rum
2CUC lemonade
8CUC lobster dinner
9 February Cienfuegos
Woke at 7 and breakfast quickly, before setting off across town to the ferry port, west of the historic plaza. Only just made the very full 8a.m. ferry over to Castillo de Jagua, but was able to find a spot at the front of the boat. It was a wonderful trip along the expansive bay of Jaguey, quite industrialised, but with still quite a lot of natural terrain available.
Arrived after an hour putting along past shoals of fish and flocks of hungry seabirds, at the pleasant ramshackle fishing village near the entrance to the bay. Disembarked for the short walk up the hill, to the drawbridge and fort Castillo, good views over the harbour entrance (and not so great of the massive hotel opposite). Had some interesting exhibits about the fort and area´s history. Surprised that the Spanish ignored this natural harbour for so long, now one of the main ports in Cuba. Spent an hour wandering the battlements, exploring the dungeons and water storage units, before returning to the ferry point shortly after 10, for the return trip back to Cienfuegos.
Cienfuegos also had a shopping mall leading off its main plaza, and seemed the most commericalised and busy of all the places I´ve visited so far in Cuba. Many locals were out in force, browsing the CUC shops, or buying stuff in the CUP ones. Prices are incredibly low for CUP purchases, but rarely stuff you´d want as a tourist. The artesenal woodwork and leatherwork though, was of high quality.
Spent the p.m. wandering down the peninsula to Punta Gorda, a pleasant park marking the tip. There were some fantastically located casas there, as well as various historic buildings. My destination was the Hotel Prado?, where boarded a cruise boat at 5p.m. for the sunset cruise around the bay. It was very pleasant, and we approached Castillo de Jagua as the sun set, even more birds feeding on the fish than in the morning. Had interesting chat with fellow guests and tour guides about visits to communist countries. We stopped for rooftop cocktails on top of the ostentatious Palacio de Valle and watch the stars twinkling overhead, before I caught a bus back with the group into Cienfuegos, and eventually stumble back to my CP.
Costs
4CUC breakfast
20CUC room at CP
10CUC sunset tour
2CUC ferry across bay to Fort Jagua (& return)
1CUC entry to fort
10CUC cocktails
2CUC water
3CUC mojito
4MN bread
6MN juice
20MN ice cream
10 February Trinidad
Didn´t have a great sleep (due to the amount of alcohol still swimming around my system), but rose at 7.30 for breakfast, and set off at 8 to the Prado, to hear the local musicians practicing and jamming along the pedestrianised strip. A mellow way to start the day. Then popped into a pantomine at 10 at a nearby museum - great costumes and very comfortable seats to snooze in!
Then headed to Plaza Villafueras (named after another martyred Cuban general) where another group of locals were playing a ballad, with accompaniment by young and old singers. The rum was flowing and cigars burning, as the old bloke railed against the romantic optimism of youth - it was the first real expression of joy and laughter I´d seen from Cuban locals, although the local firewater also seemed to help.
Returned to CP to pack and dined at restaurant on plaza, before heading to bus station - where there was a comedy of errors. I bought a ticket to Villa Clara, and waited patiently until 4.55 when Viazul bus turned up. Various of the local officials confirmed it was the bus I wanted to Villa Clara, but its route seemed very familiar, and we soon ended up in Trinidad at 6p.m., just on dusk - no one really seems to have a clue in Cuba (or to care). Really getting frustrated with people´s intransigence (when not after CUC) or insistence (when after CUC). A really quixotic society - shows what happens when the Young Socialists get into power! Nancy´s CP was full, but she pointed me to another place where I spent the night and enjoyed more lobster. Quite tired, but since I was back in Trinidad, headed to the Casa de Trova, to enjoy more music from the local septet - played some different tunes which was refreshing.
Costs
4CUC breakfast
20CUC room
6CUC bus to Trinidad
1CUC drink
10CUC dinner
2CUC water
3CUC mojito
1MN theatre
11 February Espiritu Sancti, Remedios
Didn´t sleep at all well and declined breakfast since not feeling great. Bought my bus ticket to Espiritu Sancti at 8, and was only tourist to alight on arriving there from Trinidad at 9. Can see why, since there was little to see, although, like Bayamo, there was no sense of hustle or scam the tourist. Caught a horse taxi into town, and wandered up to the interesting Museum of Human Fortitude on Parque Maceo, dedicated to a pan American expedition using wooden canoes to travel from the Andes to the Atlantic along the Amazon and Orinoco Rivers, and thence up to the Caribbean. There were various pictures and relics of the expedition 30 years ago, as well as one of the 5 canoes used.
Wandered down through main square to Espiritu´s famed 4 arch brick bridge, good views from the Quinta restaurant, where enjoyed ice cream and chatting to the tour group I´d met on the booze cruise in Cienfuegos. Passed some time at the desultory provincial museum, before being approached by Delpin, a casa owner, who could help arrange private transport across to Remedios.His mate Jorge turned up shortly afterwards in his Lada, a better version of the one I´d used to travel to Santo Domingo in. We soon set off (Delphin and Jorge in the front whilst I looked (and felt) innocuous in the back).
We detoured from the autopista through fertile agricultural country, along the good former main highway connecting Havana to Santiago. Passed through Zulueta, a slave town, which gave vent to Delphin and Jorge´s underlying racism against black people - still quite an undercurrent of colour differentiation in Cuba, regardless of the slogans promoted. Similar to Dominican Republic in that regard.
We arrived at Remedios around 2.30 and eventually found Maria Bello´s CP that I´d contacted the previous evening. Mario and her husband Andreas ran a lovely CP a few blocks west of the main plaza, and after checking in, wandered the historic streets of Remedios, surrounded by sugar cane fields and farmland. It had been a prosperous river port, and was the 8th settlement in Cuba, but never recognised as such since it never paid its dues to the Spanish Crown... It was a very pleasant place, one hotel, one souvenir shop, and a few bars patronised by locals. Wide streets and a spacious clean plaza were the setting for various churches and other examples of 200-300 year old buildings. Many were in states of decrepitude and some blocks were just ruins. Enjoyed a lovely meal out on the patio and reading up on what to see and do for the rest of my time in Cuba.
Costs
4CUC breakfast
6CUC bus to Espiritu Sancti
1CUC tip Human Foundation
1CUC entry to provincial museum
2.5CUC icecream Quinta
40CUC private car to Remedios
20CUC room at CP
8CUC dinner
1CUC water
3MN ice cream
12 February Cayos de Santa Maria, Villa Clara
Woke briefly in night from nearby train´s whistle as it departed Remedios for Villa Clara. But my destination lay northwards, at the Cayos de Santa Maria. Arranged through Maria, an official taxi (the only vehicles allowed along the causeway, built at tremendous expense to link the cays to the mainland). Before that, took a last wander around Remedios, popping in briefly to the closed Parradas museum, commemorating the fiestas and parades held in the town every Christmas Eve, between competing barrios.
Greeted Adolpho, who turned up shortly before 9, and farewelled Maria and Andreas before heading up the 7km to Caibarien, another former port city, now also in near ruins. Spent 20 mins or so exploring the plaza and the ruined wharves, store houses, before heading along the brand new highway to Moron, and turning off onto the bridge and causeway linking the cays (the PiedraPlen). Passed an accident en route involving other taxis and cyclists - Adolpho noted there were still high numbers of traffic accidents since the campesinos still think of the highway as a farm track.
The Piedraplen is 48km long, has 44 bridges and took 11 years to build working 24 hours a day - at least Cuban labour is cheap! The worst part is that no Cuban is allowed on the cays, apart from those that work there in the resorts. Appalling. Cayo Santa Maria and its neighbouring islands are the home to some of the most expensive, exclusive (literally) resorts in Cuba. There are 5, with a 6th currently being built - the water having to be piped over from the mainland. Stopped short of the end of the piedraplen due to the engineering, construction being undertaken on the massive new resort, and Adolpho drove me to the only accessible resort, Villa Brujas, for day trippers.
It was a pleasant, low key place - great views and verandahs of the limestone coral islands surrounded by azure Caribbean seas - a real getaway, sea change place. The beach used by the resort was quite narrow, but the waters were calm and good for lounging in. Wandered along to the salt lagoons, that held numerous birdlife, even in the middle of the day. Spent an enjoyable few hours at the resort, before heading back south at 2p.m., arriving in Villa Clara around 4p.m, in time for brief visit to Tren Blindado monument, commemorating one of the last attacks by Che and his troops in the Revolutionary struggle.
Found out that the place I´d booked was already full, but was taken to a neighbouring CP - fairly garish and a bit grotty - plus had an extended family staying there so quite crowded. The food was the worst I had in all the CPs I stayed at in Cuba. Before dinner, I took the opportunity to visit the Che memorial, where he and his fellow Bolivian guerillas (terrorists) are interred. It was quite a monument, more gigantic, overwhelming structures, daubed with the words of Che to support and continue the revolution. Large parade ground, used like the Plaza Marti, to gather the faithful at scheduled times.
Costs
3CUC breakfast
60CUC taxi for day to Santa Maria Cays and return to Villa Clara
2CUC drinks
20CUC room
1CUC lemonade
2CUC beer
8CUC meal
13 February Varadero
Woke early and after a desultory breakfast, walked up to bus terminal, where checked in my bags and chatted to friendly locals, whilst waiting for 7.45a.m. bus to Varadero - I needed a break from Cuba! It eventually arrived at 9 and we were soon heading through harvested cane fields on way north west to Varadero, stopping at various points en route to buy various delicacies, including tasty nougat, peanut brittle. Amazingly bad gangster movie, curtailed by arrival in Varadero at noon - best part was bloke in wheelchair outracing a bloke with a machine gun on a motorbike through a school´s corridors - hilarious!
Club Herradura, which I´d booked at the Islazul office in Villa Clara the previous evening, was one of the closest hotels to the Viazul bus terminal, and handily placed near restaurants, as well as being directly on the beach. Wandered around the broad streets of Varadero, lined with hotels and tourist related services. Investigated trips to the Bay of Pigs for the next day, but not sufficient numbers. Surprising given the number of tourists, but found out later that most people come to Varadero (and rightly so) for worship of the sun gods...
A Hop On Hop Off bus was heading my way and so boarded along with other tourists, for the 2 hour circuit it completed of the peninsula - a good introduction to the numerous resorts and marinas constructed there over the past 20 years. Glad to be on the bus when it hailed rain about 4p.m. Still plenty of open space, although the protected area is rapidly diminishing with the encroachment of even more and bigger resorts.
It was still pelting rain and very strong winds as I left bus to return to the hotel - the temperatures had dropped rapidly, and was the coldest I´d been in Cuba! Still overcast after the monsoonal conditions, so spent the rest of the day writing up my notes and reading on the spacious hotel balcony.
Costs
3CUC breakfast
11CUC bus to Varadero
50CUC room at Islazul Herradrua
5CUC hop on hop off bus Varadero
4CUC whiskey
3CUC lemonade
2CUC lunch
14 February Varadero
Didn´t feel terribly well on waking, but after breakfast, felt well enough to go for a wander along the beach, in much sunnier and warmer conditions than yesterday. The sands were clean and water clear, not that you could see much of both, since the strip was packed with holidaymakers, primarily it seemed from Canada. There were a few Cuban vendors, but otherwise, it could have been any beach in the world.
Returned to Club Herradura to soak up some rays in the late afternoon - very peaceful, so relaxing that I promptly fell asleep on getting back to my room and didn´t wake until midnight, so forced to munch snacks and watched (appropriately enough) "From Dusk to Dawn" - fortunately the hotel didn´t feature deranged vampire waitresses...
Costs
50CUC hotel room
4CUC safe
3CUC lunch
1CUC tip
3CUC food
15 February Vinales
Rose at 7 and after breakfast, headed to Viazul terminal to purchase ticket for 8a.m. bus for Habana - quite packed with tourists heading into the capital for the day. It was a pleasant, scenic journey, good views of the coast, as well as the interior. Arrived in Central Habana around 10.40 to drop people off, then onto University, before finishing at Viazul terminal at 11.
Had several hours to kill before the 2p.m. bus to Vinales, so wandered across to the National Zoo, a spacious place that had seen much better days. There were crocs, monkeys, as well as various bird species. Even some bedraggled kangaroos. The most cringeworthy event was the harassment of a monkey troupe by 3 youths, who didn´t like being photographed in the act. The security guard was more interested in begging for CUC from me than catching the individuals, or safeguarding the animals in the park. Can´t get over the continual dereliction of care for their work by Cubans - there really is very little thought for anyone else here, beyond what can be taken, used, from tourists.
It was another pleasant journey west along excellent highway to Vinales, a spectacularly situated farming community within limestone karst contry. The bus arrived around 5, where I met Mestiza, another friendly CP owner. Enjoyed a beautiful sunset from near her house, before wandering into the low key plaza - folks are very friendly and there is very little hassle here, despite the hordes of tourists that swamp the town - much more enjoyable tourist experience.
Costs
1CUC tip to housekeeping
10CUC bus to Havana
1CUC luggage
12CUC bus to Vinales
2CUC zoo entry
1CUC ice cream
15CUC room
8CUC dinner
3CUC drinks
4MN drinks
16 February Vinales
Had the best nights sleep in Cuba, still recovering from the 24 hour bug I picked up in Varadero. Vinales a very pleasant place to wake up, albeit late for my Cubacom minibus that departed at 8.15 for a day trip to Cayo Levisa on the northern coast.
Chatted to Carlos our driver as we droe along good road up to the resort area, passing numerous farmers on the way with roosters under their arms, going to an unofficial cockfight in the vicinity. Great views of the karst countryside, and passed various of the tourist attracitons in the vicinity of Vinales.
Made good time to the port for ferries for Cayo Levis at 9.15, which left at 9.40 (without 2 of our group since the captain said the boat was overloaded - bizarre since it was only half full!) Very Cuban, but didn´t make the German couple any happier. It was a smooth trip across to the cay, from where enjoyed a cocktail whilst exploring the white sand beach.
Returned to wharf to set off on snorkelling expedition to the nearby reefs, apparently the first time in several days that the winds had diminished enough to enable the trip to proceed. Dropped anchor about a mile offshore from Cayo Leviso, and spent only 45 minutes snorkelling along the coral rock wall - good coral and numerous fish, with visibility quite good, although the current was very strong. Shame the time passed so quickly.
Kept my gear and ate a very sparse meal at the hotel restaurant, the resort wouldn´t be a place I´d want to have an extended stay at, given the paucity of ingredients and food provided. Then wandered around the cay, stopping to snorkel at various points, but all disappointing in comparison to the morning´s snorkelling expedition.
Our group assembled at the wharf at 4.45 for the return journey to the mainland, be prepared to get wet if sitting in the front of the boat, since heading into the oncoming current. Returned via the same road to Vinales, arriving there shortly after 6.30 - having an interesting chat to one of the first dive masters - instructors in Cuba - there are plans afoot to link up many of the dive sites on overnight trips, trying to make it more professional and competitive with other places in the Caribbean.
Enjoyed very tasty meal at Dom Tomas restaurant, before heading to nearby casa de troval to hear Son de Valle group. They were excellent and bought their CD. Loud reggaeton was being blasted from the pub on the opposite side of the road - amazingly ecletic mix of musical styles here.
Costs
4CUC breakfast
15CUC room
9CUC transfer
26CUC tour to Cayo Leviso
10CUC snorkel hire
5CUC extended snorkel hire
1CUC tip
6CUC CD
1CUC casa de trova
14CUC dinner
3CUC drinks
17 February Vinales
Rose at 7 for breakfast, before heading back to Restaurant Dom Tomas at 8, to hire a brakeless bike (quite common here) and head off into the valley. Fantastically rich soil meant excellent growing conditions for numerous crops (main one tobacco). Grand setting as the morning mist rolled back to reveal picturesque homesteads amidst the knobbled hillocks of limestone that emerged from the valley. Very rewarding to be able to travel under my own steam and explore where I liked.
Arrived at Cueva de Indio at 10 for a traipse through the cave system and along the waterway to a settlement of souvenir shops. Preferred my excursion to the Valle del Ancon - quite steep going and glad for the water I´d brought along. It was a secluded coffee growing area, obscured by pine forest, but with pleasant views from the valley floor when I eventually arrived. The strange thing was the size of the school which seemed to take up half the village´s area. Again, with massive slogans exhorting the students to be true to the revolution. Get ém young...
Then biked across to the eastern neighbourhood of Vinales, to its peaceful cemetery, as well as numerous slogans and memorials commemorating the Miami 5, Cuban spies imprisoned by the States for spying on emigre communities. One man´s terrorist etc..
Then headed west out of Vinales to La Ermita Hotel, for fantastic, postcard like views of the valley. Spent a restful half hour soaking up the views and vistas before returning to the village and handing back my bike - quite saddle sore! Gingerly made my way to baseball stadium, where Vinales were playing local rivals Holguin?. It was 7 all at the end of the 9th innings, spectators of both teams getting quite animated at times. But it ended in a draw, since the next 3 innings produced no runs, let alone many hits - it was like each team was afraid to win.
Headed back to CP for delicous chicken dinner, before writing up my diary on the CP´s verandah, too tired to head back even the short distance into town.
Costs
4CUC breakfast
6CUC bike hire 8 hours
5CUC entry to Cueva del Indios
1CUCK bike parking
3CUC beers
2CUC cocktail
8CUC dinner
8CUC cigars
2CUC drinks
15CUC room
18 February Habana
After another hearty breakfast, wandered to shop on main street to purchase my return ticket to Habana, very atmospheric with the mist shrouding the surrounding hills. Trip back at 8a.m. was very smooth and punctual, passing through Pinar del Rio around 9, a coffee break around 10.15, and back in Habana bus terminal by 11.25. Was back at Islazul Caribbean by lunch time, to find the reservation I´d made a month ago had not been honoured. Unfazed, and they still had a spare room, although had to leave my bags behind the front desk until the room had been cleaned.
So spent the afternoon over at Casa Blanca, and the site of the 17th International Book Fair. Loads of publishers exhibiting their wares, and place was packed with Cubanas, and it was the first place I´d been to where all the prices where in CUP, not CUC - glad to have still got some spare, since the food was straight off the grill and very tasty. It was enjoyable time to explore the fort(s), and still quite easy to avoid the throngs of bibliophiles and school kids running around. There were great views from the battlements across the Habana Vieja, and it was a stunning sunset as returned by ferry to my hotel.
Costs
12CUC bus to Habana
36CUC room at Islazul Caribbean
1CUC lunch
2CUC drinks
5CUC concert
11CUC dinner
5CUC drinks
2MN ferry
5MN sandwich
3CUC drinks
3CUC ice cream
19 February Habana
Woke to news on CNN that Fidel had resigned, the driver up to Cayo Levisa had been right! One of the best bits of news I could have received on my last full day in Cuba. Promptly went out to buy up copies of Granma that reported Fidel´s speech. He´s resigned as Commandante in Chief, but still will write the state newspaper editorials. A bit like Rupert Murdoch not running for President, but owning all the media outlets...
Did some internetting at the Capitaloto building, the (relatively) cheapest and fastest place in Cuba - the lack of cyberspace here means I´m returning to how I used to record my travels, long hand in a notebook. Much more time consuming than being able to type it directly onto the screen.
There was no outward signs of emotion by any of the locals, the only people eagerly reading the newspapers were the cops. Interesting as to who the change in leadership really effects. Read Granma at Cathedral Square, listening to various bands playing by now familiar staples. Checked out some of the museums in Habana Vieja, since most of the afternoon was drizzly. Impressed with the scale model of Habana, would have taken a lot of work.
Sheltered under canvas for dinner and mojitos along the waterfront, fantastic double rainbow as the skies partially cleared at dusk, and the light fading over the Castillo and forts were fantastic. Spent the evening, packing and working out plans for Jamaica.
Costs
36CUC room
3CUC mojito
1CUC entry
7CUC mojitos
11CUC internet
5CUC fans
40CUC paintaings
35CUC CD music
50CUC gifts
2CUC cars
3CUC haircut
25MN sandwich
10MN beer
4MN drinks
3MN ice cream
20 February
Ate breakfast at 7.30 and waited for my cab at 7.45 which, surprise surprise, didn´t show. Nothing is reliable in Cuba. Took a while to hail a taxi on the Prado, but eventually collected by the slowest, smelliest Lada I´d seen in Cuba! Took over an hour to wind our way to the airport, arriving only 1.5 hours before the Air Jamaica flight was to leave, but it proved no problem for the friendly lady at the desk, already had a positive impression of that place!
Spent the last of my CUC on CDs, rum and other souvenirs, before boarding the Air Jamaica flight, along with the Cuban soccer team, en route to play a friendly in Guyana. They were all very cheerful, possibly because they were leaving Cuba (and for 7 of them, for the last time in a long time... after defecting later in the US).
Costs
20CUC taxi to airport
25CUC departure tax
9CUC Havana rum
57CUC CDs music
1CUC drink
In Summary
Didn´t like Cuba, or more particularly Cubans, or even more specifically, the repressive and restrictive environment. China, for example, is far freer and more liberal in its attitude to its citizenry (so long as they don´t directly oppose the status quo). Not a place I´ll return to anytime soon, as there is no concept of service, just a continual push to obtain the CUCs needed to buy ordinary, daily items. Understandable, but not excusable, particularly when Cubans are materially much better off than their counterparts in Dominican Republic, Haiti and Jamaica.
Did enjoy Vinales, the only place that made it easy for independent travellers to explore and engage with locals. Otherwise, the focus was on package tours and to herd foreigners into expensive all inclusive resorts, ply them with cheap rum and women, and then fly them back home.
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